Wednesday, 5 February 2014

Jungle Marfy

I recently got introduced to Marfy patterns, quite by accident.  Carola posted a question on the 2013 RTW Fasters FB page back in September, wanting to know if anyone had sewn a Marfy pattern, because they don't come with instructions.  What?!  No instructions, who are these people ... internet research revealed they are an Italian indie pattern designer that hand cut all their patterns before despatching.

As the LFJ sew-along got going there were loads of Marfy patterns posted to the inspiration board, this is when I started to look closely at them.  Then in December Leisa announced that she would be hosting a sew-along with the free Marfy patterns - a top, a skirt and a jacket.  Without hesitation I signed up (really I'm not a free freak, but what better way to get introduced to a new pattern brand).  Anyway enough reading, let me show you some pictures....

Jungle Marfy

Jungle Marfy

The suggested fabric by Marfy is jersey, crepe de chine, chiffon or satin.  I had a few pieces of fabric in my stash that would have worked perfectly but seen everyone in the blogisphere was stepping out for Jungle January I settled on this polyester satin.  I picked this up on Trade Me (NZ version of EBay) maybe 12-18 months ago and thought it would be great for lining.  I figured that if it all turned to custard I hadn't lost anything.

I must admit I was a little nervous about sewing this fabric because it just moves everywhere!  Determine to conquer I carefully folded the fabric and pinned, pinned, pinned and pinned again (my silk pins are definitely my BFF).

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I sewed this together using a combination of regular 'ol sewing machine seams and couture techniques.  Leisa consulted with Susan Khalje who shared this fantastic couture technique for creating the back opening - the back pattern piece is cut on the fold.  I can see that look of confusion on you face!  Have a read of this and all will become clear - I think it's brilliant and easy enough to create.

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I lined both pieces of the collar with silk organsa and machine basted them in place.  It was just the right amount of structure for the collar to sit up but not be rough on my neck.  Look at this - I was so happy with the result.

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I applied the collar to the top with the sewing machine, around three sides, but then hand-stitched the back of the collar to the top so there wasn't a line of machine stitching visible at the bottom of the collar.  It also just feels better!

I tried a hairline seam for the shoulder seams and a french seam for the sides.  I did a machine rolled hem around the bottom and half machine, half hand-stitch rolled hem for the armholes.

I made a couple of pattern adjustments:
  1. Lengthen the body above the armpit.  Although now I'm not sure that I needed to lengthen as much as I just needed to slightly reshape the armhole so it didn't cut into the crease where my arm meets my body in the front.
  2. Added 3/4" (2cm) to the bottom.
  3. Cut and spread 1/2" (1.2cm) just off centre back to allow for the opening technique. 
  4. Curved in the side seams slightly to give a little shape to the top
I feel next time I could take 1/2" (1.2cm) off the side seam of the front and back and it would still have enough room.  Oh, I cut a size 46 - patterns are available from sizes 42-58.

Looking at the design sketches it appears that elastic has been put into the bottom so when worn out the bottom sits on hips and behaves.  I decided not to put elastic in mine, so I could wear tucked in with a skirt or out with a pair of skinnies (maybe?)

Jungle Marfy

Jungle Marfy

Again I have learnt so much from the very talented Leisa over at A Challenging Sew and I'm looking forward to putting the jacket together in March.  This Marfy pattern was well drafted and actually quite easy to put together, with a bit of thought.

IMG_3767My pattern-a-holic self could help herself and ordered the 2014/15 Marfy catalogue. 

One part of me was curious as to what other detail was provided in the catalogue to help guide the sewing decisions, the other part of me couldn't pass up the 20 free patterns included.   The Marfy pattern pricing isn't any different from other indie patterns that range from NZ$25-$30 and for that matter we pay NZ$30 for a Vogue pattern.  

It's the postage that's the killer, but even so the cost per pattern included in the catalogue works out to be just NZ$4.75 - what a bargain right!?  Bonus - the catalogue is beautiful.

After the sew-along has finished I'm looking forward to challenging myself with a few of these patterns - going solo if it were (scary!)

More photos on my Flicr -->

17 comments:

  1. Omg your sewing is so amazing! I hope I can be that good one day. What a fabulous top :)

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    1. Johanna you sew some lovely garments and you will just get better and better. Believe me I still have my trials and tribulations and mistakes along the way - I now think that is all part of sewing :-)

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  2. Love your new top. Jungle print is a huge favourite of mine.

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    1. Thanks Gail. I really like jungle print but I haven't got too much of it in my wardrobe - I think I'm a little afraid of the 'cougar' label!

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  3. Your top looks amazing! I still need to get mine done. Can't wait to see what you make from the Marfy catalogue.

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    1. Thanks Teri. Choosing where to start is such a hard decision. I think I might trace off the ones at the top of my list and then let the fabric decide which one comes first.

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  4. I downloaded this free pattern too so I could try a Marfy pattern before I think about buying one. I haven't made it yet but yours looks fantastic and I'm very inspired. I love the print

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    1. Leisa provides a heap of great information on her blog about sewing the pattern. The Marfy patterns themselves are self explanatory you just have to work out the order of construction and best method to use. Definitely challenges the brain!

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  5. Really love both your top (and Sarah's) and you've inspired me to give Marfy's patterns a go! I didn't realise about the free patterns and think that is probably a great way to start with Marfy and adding on seam allowance, etc, won't be a drama for me! Thanks for sharing! PS: I wish you lived closer to me coz I'd love to pop over for a cuppa and browse that new catalogue!! (We're practically neighbours but still not close enough!) ;-)

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    1. Thanks Carola. I think the Marfy top pattern would look great on you too. I'm sure you won't have a problem in whipping it up, but do check out the couture technique for the opening, it is perfect.

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  6. I have this sew-along bookmarked and the pattern on my harddrive! Your version looks absolutely fierce! Love it!
    The Marfy Catalog is sold in newsstands around town here, so I guess I should maybe invest?

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    1. If you don't have to pay for postage then the price will be really reasonable and the 20 patterns included are pretty great. The sew-along has some great information, so when you're ready I would recommend.

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  7. Oh yes she did!! I love this marfy blouse (but havn't sewn it yet, waiting for it to not be -40 degrees celsius here first) and you sewed it in animal print! It makes it so pin up sexy, I love it!

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  8. Love your Marfy blouse and good idea to shape the side seams! Marfy catalogues are amazing and I have two at home and am looking forward to making a few more of the free patterns once the sew-along has finished and the confidence has increased to sew blind!!

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    1. Thanks Sharon. I'm really enjoying the sew-along. I've realised I sew much better when I stop and think but sometimes I just sit down and follow the steps in the instructions instead of thinking my way through it - so I think Marfy will do wonders for me to work my own way through the construction.

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  9. Wow, this looks great! I love the print and silhouette combo, and to be honest I have a real soft spot for this type of top. It looks great on you!

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    1. Thanks Joy. I really want to make another but I'm having a bit of dilemma about the fabric to use!

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