Saturday, 5 April 2014

Marfy Free Jacket Pattern - Part 1

This is the garment that I've been most looking forward to, the Marfy Jacket 1756 - one of the three free patterns made available this year.

I began by selecting a size 46.  Traced the pattern and cut my muslin.  Now here's were it get's interesting as there are no construction instructions.  The only thing that you have to go on is the artist impression and markings on the pattern pieces.


I started by sewing up the centre back seam and then attached the side back pieces to give me a complete back - easy!

Then I thought, attach side front to centre front.  This would be straight forward if they were princess seams, but not!  The side front is an inset corner ... I've only ever sewn one of these before on my Mila Dress, and while it worked out okay, it was a bit of hit and miss.  I went to the trusty internet looking for a technique, this is what I found - Shirley Smith is a goddess!


This is so easy and the end result is, OMG, perfection! There is also a wee section in the book "Couture Sewing Techniques" by Claire Shaeffer on seams with reverse corners.  This is a very similar technique to that demonstrated by Shirley in the video but using hand stitches instead of machine stitching.

Reverse corner technique

Next, I sewed the shoulder seams, then the centre back of the collar before attaching that to the back - tricky little corners, and actually I might try the above technique on those corners as well. I sewed the centre back collar of the front facing then pinned and sewed the front lining to the jacket in one continuous sewing line.

I learnt a good tip from Stephanie Lincecum ... about sewing in the corner of collars to avoid the 'blow-out' ... stop about one stitch before the corner, place the foot at a 45 degree angle to the line of stitching just sewn, sew one or two stitches, turn again to sew the next  seam.  It's the little things that matter!

Finish muslin, deciding length
Make-up free face of concentration!!
I'm pretty happy with the final muslin fit - it only took me 5 weeks!  The first muslin fit was too big around my body, but shoulder width and waist location all seemed to be okay, so I tore the first muslin apart and reduced all vertical seams down to a size 44.  There is room to move and enough room to wear some winter layers of clothing underneath. 

I was surprised at how long the jacket is given the description of the pattern reads "This short, tight-fitting jacket closes edge-to-edge with hooks".  I've removed 3inches from the length so it will sit on my high hip.

Now I need to think about the construction of the actual jacket.  I think it might be a combination of a tailored blazer and a french jacket.  Thinking, thinking ....


13 comments:

  1. I am also going to attempt this jacket but plan to leave it until Leisa starts the sew-along. Thank you for the great information about that reverse corner, I was wondering what was the best way to tackle that. I have done my first muslin but didn't grade down to a 38 which I need to so, so back to the drawing board for me.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm looking forward to Leisa's sew-along too. I thought I would try this on my own to begin with to challenge myself with the knowledge that I can always rely on the sew-along for reassurance and when I get stuck. I love that the free patterns are multi-size which will help me get a feel for what size I need to order in future.

      Delete
  2. Looks like the fit is right. I enjoyed reading the inverted corner technique.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Gail. I was quite pleased with myself after getting my head around the inverted corner - so easy really!

      Delete
  3. That inverted corner always has me hesitate. It always turn out, but it scares me. I have this pattern I am waiting to see some finished before I decide to start a muslin.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was really hesitant in the beginning about the inverted corner as well - thought I would really screw it up! Now that I've got that sorted it gives me more confidence with the fashion fabric.

      Delete
  4. Exciting! Your jacket will be fab I'm sure!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Jo - always trying to push my boundaries and sew the things I want rather than the things I can sew.

      Delete
  5. I love a 'Chanel' style jacket. I have always been afraid of a Marfy pattern. Your jacket muslin is perfect. Great Job!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I finished my first Ch*nel type jacket this year which has boosted my confidence to make more. It is great that Marfy have offered some free patterns to try before actually diving in the deep end and buying one of their patterns.

      Delete
  6. Oooh, you brave thing! I can't WAIT to see this all made up, such a classic style and I know you'll nail it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think I've made it doubly hard by choosing a fabric that I need to match - oh dear! Slowly but surely needs to be my moto for this one I think.

      Delete
  7. Hi I nominated you for a Liebster award!

    ReplyDelete

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...